The Art of Light and Shadow: Exploring Lillian Bassman’s Photographic Technique
Discover the artistry of Lillian Bassman, a photographer who redefined fashion imagery through her experimental approach in the darkroom. Learn how Bassman used light and shadow to create photographs that transcend time, offering a fresh perspective in a world constrained by rigid standards.
Photo by Lillian Bassman
Biography
Lillian Bassman, a pivotal figure in the fashion photography landscape, was born in 1917 to Jewish immigrants in Brooklyn, New York. Her educational journey began at the Textile High School in Manhattan, where she was mentored by the renowned artist Alexey Brodovitch, fostering a deep understanding of art.
Bassman's career trajectory saw her evolving from a fashion illustrator in the 1940s to a defining personality at Harper's Bazaar. Here, she nurtured the careers of iconic photographers and developed a distinctive style characterized by high contrast and dream-like imagery, a testament to her mastery of darkroom techniques.
The 1970s marked Bassman's foray into personal photo projects, embracing digital technology and abstract colour photography. Despite a hiatus, the 1990s witnessed a resurgence in her work, celebrating her innovative approach to fashion photography. Bassman's journey, rich with innovation and a deep understanding of photographic artistry, concluded in 2012, leaving a legacy of elegance and sensitivity.
“I project what I’m not. What I would like to be”
Exploring the Artist's Work and Style
As I explore my own style of photography, I find myself intrigued by the work of Lillian Bassman, an artist who used skill and knowledge to stretch the boundaries of conventional photography to create pieces that are both ethereal and deeply sensitive.
Bassman's understanding of the technical aspects of photography, especially her knowledge of darkroom processes and the limitations of the paper she worked with, allowed her to experiment freely. Through the use of the bleaching process, she was able to enhance contrast and create images of extreme light and shadow, a technique I find both bold and inspiring.
A collection of photos created by Lillian Bassman illustrating her dramatic use of extreme contrast to accentuate line and form
Her portraits, often a beautiful interplay of light and dark, focus more on the form than the details, a technique that brings a unique perspective to viewing fashion photography. The way she used shadow to highlight form and the flow of lines is something that I find increasingly attractive as I explore my style.
In Bassman's darkroom, a place of alchemy, she removed distractions to retain the pure essence of her vision. It fascinates me how she transformed some images into artworks resembling line drawings, completely removing all detail and enhancing the graphical nature of the image to clearly show the user exactly what she saw when standing in front of the model.
As I continue to work through trying to understand better what I want to do with my photography, I find her approach to removing all detail exciting. She chose a path less travelled, focusing less on the finer details and more on the artistic narrative conveyed through deftly manipulating light and shade. Her work is a masterclass in creating a style that can only be present in the print, a body of work that inspires me to explore beyond the conventional.
Photo by Lillian Bassman
Conclusion
Lillian Bassman's journey in the world of photography is a rich source of inspiration for budding photographers like myself. Her images stand as a testimony to the beautiful creations one can achieve when one blends technical skill with a visionary approach to photography. It shows us that venturing into the unknown and breaking away from established norms can lead to profoundly beautiful results, offering a fresh perspective in a world constrained by rigid standards.
Grab Shot - Abandoned Shoes
What is a “Grab Shot”? I was introduced to this concept from Valerie Jardin in an episode of the Photowalk Podcast, she describes it as…
Always made with intent, decide on the composition, decide on colour or black and white, and then let the camera make the rest of the decisions. It’s about making decisions quickly.
Grab Shot - Umbrellas and Orange
What is a “Grab Shot”? I was introduced to this concept from Valerie Jardin in an episode of the Photowalk Podcast, she describes it as…
Always made with intent, decide on the composition, decide on colour or black and white, and then let the camera make the rest of the decisions. It’s about making decisions quickly.
Grab Shot - Fly By
What is a “Grab Shot”? I was introduced to this concept from Valerie Jardin in an episode of the Photowalk Podcast, she describes it as…
Always made with intent, decide on the composition, decide on colour or black and white, and then let the camera make the rest of the decisions. It’s about making decisions quickly.
Grab Shot - A Busy Bar
What is a “Grab Shot”? I was introduced to this concept from Valerie Jardin in an episode of the Photowalk Podcast, she describes it as…
Always made with intent, decide on the composition, decide on colour or black and white, and then let the camera make the rest of the decisions. It’s about making decisions quickly.